NEW DELHI — A new exhibition in Delhi has opened to showcase the many forms of phulkari, the traditional embroidered cloth of Punjab. The display, organised by the National Gallery of Modern Art, invites visitors to explore the craft’s historical roots and its modern adaptations.
Phulkari’s Journey from Village to Gallery
Phulkari, meaning “flower work” in Punjabi, has long been associated with the women of rural Punjab. The craft, which uses bright thread on a white or off‑white background, traditionally adorns wedding and festive garments. The exhibition traces the evolution of phulkari from its 18th‑century origins to contemporary pieces that incorporate new motifs and techniques.
According to the exhibition’s catalogue, the collection is divided into three thematic sections. The first section displays early 19th‑century samples, including hand‑loomed shawls and dupattas that were traded along the Silk Route. The second section focuses on the 20th‑century revival movement, when artisans in the post‑independence era began to market phulkari to a wider audience. The third section presents contemporary works by artists who blend traditional embroidery with digital printing and mixed media.
Curatorial Vision
Curator Ranjit Singh, a textile historian, said the exhibition aims to “show how phulkari has survived and adapted in a rapidly changing cultural landscape.” The display includes more than 200 items, ranging from hand‑stitched shawls to large wall hangings. Visitors can view the intricate patterns up close, with interactive displays explaining the symbolic meanings of common motifs such as the lotus, peacock and tree of life.
Institutional Support and Community Engagement
The National Gallery of Modern Art received a grant of ₹5 lakh from the Ministry of Culture to support the exhibition’s travel and conservation costs. The gallery also partnered with the Punjab State Handloom Development Corporation to provide artisans with a platform to showcase their work. A series of workshops will run alongside the exhibition, allowing participants to learn basic phulkari stitches from master weavers.
Broader Cultural Context
Phulkari’s inclusion in a major Delhi venue follows a trend of reviving regional crafts in national museums. The Times of India reported that the gallery’s curator, Neville Tuli, is also organising a parallel exhibition titled “TRIS’ Swaraj,” which explores India’s political journey through art. Meanwhile, the Freie Universität Berlin’s New Delhi office has announced an intellectual dialogue on Himalayan histories, underscoring the city’s role as a hub for cultural exchange.
Experts note that phulkari has been recognised by UNESCO as a living heritage practice, and its revival has contributed to the preservation of rural economies in Punjab. The exhibition is scheduled to run until 30 November 2026, with a closing ceremony on 25 November featuring a live demonstration by a renowned phulkari weaver from Amritsar.
